Monday 22 January 2018

Fairy Meadows Alpine Rock 2017

Sunday August 6th - Sunday 13th, 2017 Fairy Meadows

Synopsis: 4 1/2 stars out of 5. A beautiful area, we didn't get up high however had a blast exploring some adventurous rock.




This was an ACC Calgary Section camp run by George and Clare, with camp located on a moraine about 20 minutes from the Bill Putnam hut towards Friendship Col at roughly 2200 metres. I hadn't been in the area since a GMC in 2000 so was stoked to get back to the area.




Sunday consisted of all of the usual helicopter hurrying up and waiting.  We did have time to get a bit organized around camp and scrambled up the knob to have a look at Granite Glacier and collect snow for the cooler.




Monday climbed the 5.6 routes on Gog and Magog.  Gail and I left camp at 7:45, arrived at Gog and Magog just after 9.  Gog was one was of the best pitches of climbing we experienced all week, having said that go to the top and don't stop at a 3 pin anchor on the shoulder.  Magog is worth doing for the free hanging rappel, lot's of loose rock midway as you corkscrew around the mountain and we did it in two pitches to reduce rope drag. Just after noon we were off Magog and headed to the North Ridge of Pythias, which sounded like an interesting objective following the left hand ridge below.




We crossed the glacier and arrived at the base of the 3 obvious steps at 12:30 pm and 2540 metres. The two of us scrambled up and ducked left at the first step.  After some futzing around roped up (60 metre rope and used it 30 metres doubled) and in one short pitch made the ridge on top of the first pitch. 



The second step took 3 or 4 very moderate pitches, some of it a bit mossy with signs of travel. Dodged right to top out and along another fine ridge, I still wonder if there was a more aesthetic line but it went. 



2 short pitches and were on top of the 3rd step. Some of the best rock on the route was on the scramble to the ridgeline of Pythias where we went back to boots and scrambled a short bit to the summit.  We made the summit just after 5 pm at 2760 metres and were back to camp through friendship col at 7. It did prove to be an interesting objective with the usual route finding challenges, loose rock and yes, some steep moss and grass.




On Tuesday, Gail and I attempted the Black Rib on Quadrant. After an hour and a half approach, we started in the middle of the rib just left of a large gully in black terrain. It seemed to make sense to start, however after 2 1/2 pitches we realized that we were off route and after a bit of a whipper on my part (actually more like a slitherer) we bailed. Pain is a great instructor.




Given the day was only half over, we elected to go around and do the ridge on Quadrant, as much for some fun as to scope the rappel line. Solid rock, great fun if a bit short after a longish approach. 



We put the rope on for the crack at the top, otherwise scrambled. A bit of fiddle farty lining up the raps. On top at 1:30 pm and back to the col at 2:10. Back to camp to lick our wounds (me mostly) at 4:30.



My favourite objective of the trip, Gibralter, was our plan for Wednesday. We left camp at 7:30 am and made it to the base of the route at 10:30 after negotiating Gothic Glacier. Some large cracks in the glacier earlier on, then basically bee lined for the mountain. We choose to attempt it using the near side crack and arrived to a small bergschrund that was easily crossed and a bit of a moat. 



I scored the first lead and it was a bit of a doozy. Started grotty with loose blocks followed by a gully that was close to the edge of my modest skills, fortunately with good gear. The pitched ended with a squeeze chimney and a belay ledge with an old station to the left complete with moss grown over webbing.



The next pitch was a short one and took us up to a BBQ ledge, where we hung out and had lunch. The next section looked like it would go, however the route deeks right and escapes through a hole in the rock back to the North side. Great fun with a few exposed moves on the North Side. 



We then built an anchor and the following pitch was one of the most fun pitches I've lead. Solid rock with great positions, including an eau cheval and definitely funky moves onto a flake with a lot of air beneath. I used a rap station just after to belay and Gail who the final 5.5 off width to the summit. 



We summitted at 2:45 pm roughly 2900 metres. We then rapped down the route down the face with a more direct line, it helped to have some beta from the guys that climbed it the day before. Having said that I did have to prussik back up to the 3rd anchor which was hidden in an alcove climbers right. We were back on the glacier at 4:30 pm and at camp just before 7. 




On Thursday Gail and I decided to give the Black Rib on Quadrant another try, primarily because it was unfinished business and the other routes either sounded too difficult or too scrappy.  Left camp at 8 am and hit the base of the route at 9:20 am. It turned out to be faster to approach on a beat in trail fair right and work our way to the base along the base of Quadrant.


Gail had the correct route pretty much sussed. It actually starts just left of the large gully on white granite.  Gail took the first lead and bypassed the initial gendarme on the right. I then eased my way left to the right hand side of an obvious gully. Pitch 3 Gail attempted to bypass the gully to the left which didn't go. I then pounded straight up it on some grass, some loose rock and some good rock. The pitch ended in a horizontal squeeze chimney but working my way through it  ended in a beautiful belay station laying on some grass with a view so no complaints. 


Just up from there we came up to a feature that joined the main wall. I manage to miss the cave that lead to the 5.7 money pitch and we jumped on the crack just to the right. If definitely was the money pitch and Gail made short work of it.


I then took the 5th pitch which carried along for a bit and the emptied into a bowl which lead through easier ground to the ridge of Quandrant. We hit the ridge at 3:15 pm and 2646 metres. 


We grabbed something to eat and changed into boots (how I wish I brought approach shoes). We then scrambled up fairly interesting 5.1 terrain to the main summit of Quadrant, which we arrived an hour later.


Great views, we carried along the ridge on pretty straight forward terrain and made it to the South Peak of Quadrant at 4:40 pm and then used the three raps to make it to the Col and back to camp at 8 pm. It felt good to have completed the route.



We ended the day with a swim in the lake below Quadrant. The unusually warm weather made for great swimming and not the usual quick in and out.


On Friday we were both pretty bagged and tired of dragging around a rope.  We basically did the Quadrant col to Friendship col traverse which was a nice scramble and took us back to the top of Pythias.  Taking our time it was a 7 hour day and we made it back with lots of time for the week end party.


All in, it was a week well spent. It would be good to get to the bigger peaks but lots of adventure with the rock shoes on.

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