Sunday June 2nd, 2017 West Ridge Mt Tupper 2804 metres
Synopsis: 4 1/2 stars out of 5. A little bit of everything; steep hike up to Hermit Meadows, snow up to the ridge and rock that improves quickly to being very, very good. Something for everyone and a little crowded because of it.
Tupper had been on my list of Rogers Pass classics for awhile and with the long weekend, a good weather window and two good friends who had been up it before why not? We originally were thinking of the Lone Pine approach from the highway however when I checked it out on the drive on Friday there were definitely gaps in the snow and unseasonably hot temperatures had us choose the regular route up through Hermit Meadows.
Up at 4:30 in Revelstoke, a bit of an Alpine Start although already light out. Out the door quickly with mugs of caffeinated beverages had us leaving the Hermit Meadows parking area at 6 am. There were a few cars about and another party about to head up the South Rib which is an interesting sounding route.
The forecast for the day was clear and hot and it started off without a cloud in the sky. The almost 800 metres ascent to Hermit Meadows took Andrew, Brenda and I about 2 hours and once near the camping sites we ran into snow. It was with some relief that we found it to be firm enough to hold us (read me, the Clydesdale of the team).
Water bottles were filled just past the camp ground and we could see the snow slopes right up to the ridge. There were at least one other party ahead of us judging by the tracks in the snow and we followed them over a couple of humps and across a rapidly growing creek. I don't know what I was thinking but I didn't bring a pair of sunglasses. Brenda did have an extra pair, lesson learned - always climb with people better prepared!
Once up a bit, the approach was spectacular as we made our by past Rogers, the Swiss Peaks Traverse and Truda visible in the photo above. We felt pretty lucky that the snow was just right for kicking steps in at 9 am but wondering how it would hold up for the descent in the heat of the day. The easiest and quickest approach took a pretty direct line near the top of the ridge and as we crested it Tupper itself came into view, looking spectacular!
10 am saw out team on the rock ridge, ditching poles and mountaineering axes. My watch measured roughly 2500 metres, up roughly 1200 metres and with 300 metres to the top. Interesting metres mind you.
We of course celebrated by the taking of second breakfast .
As you can see, the ridge starts off a bit rubly however fairly quickly improves to solid blocks with great exposure.
As you can imagine there are a few ups and downs along the way and the summit block didn't appear to be getting any closer for a bit.
Shortly before noon, we came over a bit of a rise to find the party ahead of us pitching out an exposed traverse including a bit of an au cheval type move. Given there was a bolted anchor, that Andrew and Brenda remembered pitching this bit out and christ there was a lot of exposure we elected to wait our turn and pitch it out as well.
At this juncture, we stopped and grabbed second lunch. We were lucky in our timing with the others on the mountain and had made good time. From this point in it is mostly scrambling and reversing our up track.
Lower down, we did use one more rap anchor to avoid some tricky down climbing. It was a bit sketchy as there is a single bolt and a red sling around a block. If you use it pay attention as the block did move and spooked the hell out of us.
Other than that it was a pretty uneventful descent. We did watch a helicopter land just our side of the Swiss Peaks and met up with the guided party lower down. We felt a little releaved to hear that it was a medical emergency although I'm not certain why, it sounded like everything worked out. We were lucky that with a bit of cloud cover the snow on descent was perfect for plunge stepping and a bit of glissading.
7:30 pm found us back at the car after a 13 1/2 hour, 1680 metre day. A day well spent and highly recommended!
Tupper had been on my list of Rogers Pass classics for awhile and with the long weekend, a good weather window and two good friends who had been up it before why not? We originally were thinking of the Lone Pine approach from the highway however when I checked it out on the drive on Friday there were definitely gaps in the snow and unseasonably hot temperatures had us choose the regular route up through Hermit Meadows.
Up at 4:30 in Revelstoke, a bit of an Alpine Start although already light out. Out the door quickly with mugs of caffeinated beverages had us leaving the Hermit Meadows parking area at 6 am. There were a few cars about and another party about to head up the South Rib which is an interesting sounding route.
The forecast for the day was clear and hot and it started off without a cloud in the sky. The almost 800 metres ascent to Hermit Meadows took Andrew, Brenda and I about 2 hours and once near the camping sites we ran into snow. It was with some relief that we found it to be firm enough to hold us (read me, the Clydesdale of the team).
Water bottles were filled just past the camp ground and we could see the snow slopes right up to the ridge. There were at least one other party ahead of us judging by the tracks in the snow and we followed them over a couple of humps and across a rapidly growing creek. I don't know what I was thinking but I didn't bring a pair of sunglasses. Brenda did have an extra pair, lesson learned - always climb with people better prepared!
Once up a bit, the approach was spectacular as we made our by past Rogers, the Swiss Peaks Traverse and Truda visible in the photo above. We felt pretty lucky that the snow was just right for kicking steps in at 9 am but wondering how it would hold up for the descent in the heat of the day. The easiest and quickest approach took a pretty direct line near the top of the ridge and as we crested it Tupper itself came into view, looking spectacular!
10 am saw out team on the rock ridge, ditching poles and mountaineering axes. My watch measured roughly 2500 metres, up roughly 1200 metres and with 300 metres to the top. Interesting metres mind you.
We of course celebrated by the taking of second breakfast .
As you can see, the ridge starts off a bit rubly however fairly quickly improves to solid blocks with great exposure.
As you can imagine there are a few ups and downs along the way and the summit block didn't appear to be getting any closer for a bit.
Shortly before noon, we came over a bit of a rise to find the party ahead of us pitching out an exposed traverse including a bit of an au cheval type move. Given there was a bolted anchor, that Andrew and Brenda remembered pitching this bit out and christ there was a lot of exposure we elected to wait our turn and pitch it out as well.
Andrew offered to take the pointy end, although shortly into it mentioned that it was slightly downward trending so he actually had the safest belay of the bunch. Crafty bastard! At this point we could see that in addition to the party just ahead of us there was another party on the 5.6 pitch partway up the summit block and another party above. You can actually see a climber in brown pants (wonder if they started out that colour!) above and to the left of Andrew in the photo above.
Andrew and Brenda were pretty certain that we could scramble up to the start of the single 5.6 pitch above without the rope and the team just across were kind enough to let us by as they chose to pitch it out. There was enough rubble on the steps we needed to be a little careful not to rain rocks on them and by working our way back and forth soon found ourselves at the bottom of the 5.6 pitch just as the second of the party above us slid off the first holds and of the crack and rejoined us on the ledge.
After roping up, Andrew handed over the alpine rack; all 4 nuts, 2 cams and 5 draws. Good of him to keep it to a minimum, you wouldn't want to haul any extra weight! As expected, it worked out perfectly although I did use a stuck cam the previous party left behind. As we agreed, I was the only one to bring rock shoes for the lead. Andrew and Brenda seconded it in their trusty Trango's in fine form (if you ignore the grunts and knees). Good, old school 5.6 however with 2 shiny bolts up top!
Once above this obstacle, the top looks pretty close however don't be fooled. The first team were descending with sore feet as they left their rock shoes on. It's further than it looks and the photo above is a false summit. Once cleared the true summit block comes into view.
Although it looks a little stiff, as is often the case in Rogers Pass the holds were perfectly spaced and incut enough that we were comfortable soloing it and found ourselves on the summit at 1:30 pm, 7 1/2 hours from the parking lot.
Interestingly I counted 5 other parties on the mountain, everyone doing things their own way. 2 parties used a rope throughout most of the upper mountain and did a fair amount of pitched climbing. We took a middle ground and pitched out two bits, the au cheval traverse and the 5.6 crack, and while we were on the summit a solo soloist arrived.
The weather was holding, although as you can see some cloud cover did develop and the wind made it's presence known from time to time so after a bite to eat, filling in the register and the obligatory summit photo we got out of dodge.
Just down from the summit itself was a bolted rappel anchor that we used to rappel off the summit block and after a short down climb we rapped off the anchor at the top of the 5.6 crack. Below the gear up ledge roughly 7 metres to climbers left was another bolted rap anchor that we used. We down climbed a bit to it but I believe that you would make it there with a 60 metre rope and save some time.
Once at the bottom of that rap it was a pretty quick down climb to the exposed au cheval like feature. We chose to rope up and I led it however not certain I would in retrospect. On the return it is slightly uphill and less awkward.
Lower down, we did use one more rap anchor to avoid some tricky down climbing. It was a bit sketchy as there is a single bolt and a red sling around a block. If you use it pay attention as the block did move and spooked the hell out of us.
Other than that it was a pretty uneventful descent. We did watch a helicopter land just our side of the Swiss Peaks and met up with the guided party lower down. We felt a little releaved to hear that it was a medical emergency although I'm not certain why, it sounded like everything worked out. We were lucky that with a bit of cloud cover the snow on descent was perfect for plunge stepping and a bit of glissading.
7:30 pm found us back at the car after a 13 1/2 hour, 1680 metre day. A day well spent and highly recommended!
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