Hungabee 2024

 Hungabee, August 18th/19th, 2024 - 3491 metres

Synopsis: Hungabee is a tough one to give a star rating. The rock isn't always as bad as the reputation, in fact the scrambling up the "indistinct rib" after the traverse was a lot of fun and the airy ridge up high was a highlight. Not sure I'm in a hurry to go back but happy to have climbed it. As often the case the bivy site was fantastic!

Paul organized the biv permits and bus pretty easily, $44 each and a seat on the 3:30 pm bus into Lake O'Hara on Sunday. There had been some snow up high on Friday night however everything up high looked dry driving in and the parks people backed that up so game on!

With overnight packs loaded, we made our way around Lake O'Hara and up East Opabin Trail which joined part of Yukness Mountain Route before breaking off towards Opabin Pass after passing the gorgeous Hungabee and Opabin Lakes.

We stopped to fill up with water at Opabin Lake and pulled out the filter just in case. On the way up to Opabin Pass there is a small glacier to cross and some soft snow beyond, crampons helped and it was easy to dodge and weave around the obvious crevasses higher up.

Not unexpectedly, the rock up to the col past the snow was rockies scree at it's finest. Although we found firmer bits once we passed the col (and the campground closed due to bear activity sign laying in the rocks) and turned up towards Little Opabin. 

It's another 200 metre elevation gain to Little Opabin and down 30 metres on the otherside to a great biv site at roughly 2750 metres with plenty of snow handy. In all it's a 760 metre elevation gain to the biv site and it took us 4 hours at a pretty leisurely pace. 

The biv site was a very cool place with a full view of the route, Wenkchemna pass to the south along with Neptuak and Deltaform poking out behind. We were treated to a spectacular full moon and clear skies overnight, the wind even died down.

We were up at 5 am with enough light to make our way just after 6. The forecast was for strong winds but it was calm and cool first thing. The photos in Jones's book and online gave a pretty clear indication where the rising traverse starts just near the top of the initial black band in a bit of a scoop in the ridge and we followed the ridge up slightly to the left. Easy scrambling on pretty good (for the rockies) rock lead to an obvious trail breaking off to the left after little more than 200 metres of elevation gain up.

We followed the raising traverse, with a number of well placed cairns and pretty loose rock up to what we thought was the "indistinct rib" and started up. The scrambling on the rib was good with somewhat solid rock and low 5th class moves for the first couple of hundred metres. There was a large black splotch on the step face to climbers left as we ascended a bit which looked to be where the large not so permanent snow patch used to be.

We carried on working our way just to the left side of the rib, do note that the lower part of the rib made up the largest chunk of the vertical elevation gain of the day. Obviously if and where you put on the rope varies wildly however when we got to where we roped up we could see down and to climbers right to the cairns and where the original West Ridge route goes. Looking down on it you could see why Larry's variation is the standard route now.

From that point we pitched out a short pitch, scrambled a bit and then pitched out 4 more to the top of the ridge. For gear we had a small rack with 5 cams and a handful of medium nuts along with 5 alpine draws and that was the right amount for Paul and I. We passed rappel anchors that appeared to be in good shape mostly usings pins and used some as anchors. Mid fifth class seemed about right with one stiffer section that we didn't see a way around.

I was lucky enough to lead the pitch up to the ridge, which was spectacular and just over 3300 metres. We were happy that the summit block didn't look nearly as intimidating as it did in some of the photos we had seen.

Before committing to the ridge we could see the trail traversing to the right into the lower parts of the summit block, however from our vantage point it looked pretty scrappy where the climbing would start further along so we stuck to the ridge. Paul and I left the rope on and slung a knob along the way. Paul then belayed me from the bulge ahead through the ridge further on finishing just past the alcove 3/4's of the way up the yellow band. Great fun, fairly solid rock and llloooottttt'''sss of exposure! 

Right about then we could see two climbers catching up, it ended up being Haldon and Darren who were doing an impressive job soloing what we just climbed. They caught us up at the summit.

Just past the alcove there was a slung rock set up for a rap anchor and I used that and Paul lead up the top of the yellow band and through the black band near the climbers left. The yellow ground went easily but there were a couple of moves mid fifth grade with good gear in the black band. That left us on the upper ridge just short of the step across. Having climbed Front of the Pinnacle at Bon Echo a long time ago and having the benefit of wingspan it's actually a bucket of fun, having said that I would have had a pants full without the benefit of a rope. Just past the step across was a solid rap anchor which I used to belay Paul across, we then left the rope and scrambled to the summit.

Big grins all around! It took us 6 hours from the biv site, obviously with a fair amount of roped climbing. In spite of it being windy and cool mid mountain, the summit was sunny and fairly calm. Spectacular views all around, especially towards Valley of the 10 peaks.

After half an hour of snacking and enjoying the view, we headed down. My plan was to use the rap anchor just before the step across which I though would take us close to the block 3/4's of the way up the yellow band that I had used as a belay station and then rap down to the beaten in trail that bypassed the sharp ridge back to where we attained the ridge itself. It largely worked although with a 60 metre rope we can some down climbing that I would describe as loose and unpleasant on the yellow band.

In the photo above you can see Paul partway along this pathway, along with Haldan and Darren on the summit ridge. Having descended that way I was glad we didn't choose to go up it. Pretty scrappy.

We intended to rappel down our climbing route but I got sucked into a line just climbers right. It went although primarily on slung blocks, no pins until the end (the piton hammer remained pretty much unused). The series of rappels involved rapping, then scrambling skiiers left to find the next station. It worked although we were working our way further skiers left than we had realized.

After 5 raps down the ridge we ended up on some chossy ground with two single piece, older rap anchors. We backed one up and rappeled over a short grey band which I realized later was part of the old west ridge route. We were still above 3200 metres so too high for the traverse back to the original ridge on the black band but we traversed to the south first, realized what was going on and traversed to the north (climbers left) across a couple of gullys to terrain we recognized and started to down climb. Once we were on the "indistinct rib" and recognized the terrain it was a matter of down climbing on somewhat solid rock to the traverse. It was further down than expected, but we kept an eye on the altimeter and finally found that cairns and packed trail that lead back at close to 3000 metres elevation.

After that it was pretty straightforward descending. Once at the lower ridge we tended to stay slightly climbers left of our route up on looser but more moderate ground. We did run into a number of dodgy rap stations but ignored them and carried on. There's a large rock blob on the ridge itself that is a great landmark.

Given the number of raps higher up and the hunting back and forth for the correct descent line, we were a full 6 hours coming down as well. Which obviously left no chance for catching the last bus down from Lake O'Hara at 6:30 pm! Even with quick packing and the Opabin scree being much easier on the way down, we didn't make it back to Lake O'Hara until dark and a hell of electrical storm caught up to us. A bit of a memorable, wet evening ensued.

A grand adventure, glad to have done it.